Saturday, December 31, 2011

How to Get Rid of Leather Smell

The leather odors may be relatively easy to deal with on a small scale, but on a large scale they can seem altogether impossible. Good quality leather will smell quite strong for several years, really. So the real question that should be asked is: Are you sure you want to remove the leather smell from your leather products? Some people actually find the smell of leather rather sexy, and it's a good indicator that your leather is of high caliber. Who doesn't want to have that leathery smell on their leather items?

But to each his/her own, and if you'd rather that your leather product (whether it's a jacket, car upholstery, the sofa or even your handbag) smells something else entirely, then follow the tips and advice below. For what it's worth, you have something made of animal hide. You should probably expect it to smell like animal hide.

Leather Smell Removal

* The only true cure (sorry for that pun) for leather musk is age; wait for the smell to go away as the leather ages, that is. You could probably mask it with something else, but putting something on the leather will probably make it take longer for the smell to go away.

* Masking agents are often used to try and take care of problematic odors. The problem with a masking agent is it does just that, it "masks" or hides the leather odor; it will not remove it.

Masking agents are often oil based and can leave a residue on the materials being treated. Masking agents can also trigger allergic reactions in sensitive individuals, such as runny noses and itchy watery eyes. A masking agent will also dissipate with time and it is possible that the original leather odor will return so use with caution.

Potpourri, air fresheners, The Body Shop Scents, a particularly fragrant shampoo, perfumes, lemon juice and whatnot are just some of the many examples you can use to mask that animal hide stench.

* You might want to go into a tack shop (horse supplies), if there's one nearby, and ask them for help. There are all sorts of leather conditioners and cleaners, and some of them can help cover the odor. Murphy's oil soap, which is always what cowboys used for cleaning saddles and boots, might also work (as well as making the leather shiny), but then again, many of those same cowboys are usually trying to keep the leather smell!

* On a small scale, leather odors can be removed by simply placing the offending article of clothing or leather product into an airtight container with baking soda for a few days. This restoration treatment however, may or may not work with this particular odor and it is certainly not possible to carry out on a large scale.

* Here's another baking soda trick; put your leather item in a bag/pillowcase. Sprinkle a liberal amount of bicarbonate soda in it. Fasten the bag up, give it a good shake, and then leave it in there for at least twenty-four hours. The baking soda should help absorb some of the odors.

* You can also put your leather item in a plastic bag with crumpled-up newspaper for a few days; it should absorb the odor. This is also part of the reason why some shoe stores put newspaper inside their leather shoe products (aside from avoiding the shoe to warp because of the hollow insides).

* Activated charcoal may work just as well as the newspaper method, but you don't want it to touch your leather item because it will ruin and stain its surface.

* You can also sponge the jacket down with ¼ cup of white vinegar to a bucket or sink of water. Sponge down your beloved leather jacket with the solution. Rinse afterwards, then apply the vinegar solution again, then rinse once more and hang to dry some place out of direct sunlight as heat can damage leather.

Vinegar will condition and clean leather and remove odors, or at least it will once its own sourness dissipates from your leather item. You can do this occasionally or when it gets heavily soiled.

* You can place pandan leaf on your smelly leather item as well. Pandan (P. amaryllifolius) leaves are used in Southeast Asian cooking to add a distinct aroma to rice and curry dishes such as nasi lemak, kaya ('jam') preserves, and desserts such as pandan cake.

Fresh leaves are typically torn into strips, tied in a knot to facilitate removal, placed in the cooking liquid, then removed at the end of cooking. Dried leaves and bottled extract may be bought in some places.

* You can also substitute Febreze with most of the cleaning agents here. Febreze uses a chemical compound called cyclodextrin that has been used in household and custodial cleaning products for quite some time.

The sugar-like substance doesn't necessarily "clean" the leather odors out, but acts as an absorbent-like baking soda or crumpled newspaper, to help soak the leather odor out.

* You can also dip the leather apparel in a bucket of bleach, rubbing alcohol or an ammonia solution for about an hour. You will then find that the foul smell has been replaced by a lovely hospital smell that will certainly attract the nostrils of young gentlemen. A reapplication of leather conditioner afterwards may be necessary.

Here are some words of warning, though; make sure to do some colorfastness test on the leather to make sure it won't fade because of the bleach. It would also be advisable to use oxygen bleach instead of chlorine bleach to avoid fading and drying in the first place.

Leather FAQ

What is the difference between Full Grain, Top Grain, Genuine and Bonded leather?

All leather isn't equal and it is important to understand the differences when you are buying leather products. Leather is a natural material. It is strong, breathes, insulates and molds to your body. It is a combination of beauty and strength. Just how beautiful and how strong, however, are influenced by the hide source, cut and process.

* Full Grain Leather: This is the best leather money can buy. It is taken from the top layer of hide and shows the natural markings and grain of the leather. The natural surface of full grain leathers burnish and beautify with use. Full Grain Leather burnishes over time.

This is the exceptional leather used in thick leather goods and leather accessories. Top quality cow and water buffalo full grain leathers are extremely strong and durable. It is used in luxury briefcases and expensive saddles and bridles.

It's this type of leather that has the most 'musk' of all the other types. This sought after (or not-so-sought after) smell makes it distinct among all the rest.

* Top Grain Leather: This is the second highest grade of leather. Top grain leather is split from the top layer of blemished hide and is sanded and refinished. Top grain leather does not burnish and beautify with use, but it is as strong and durable as full grain leather.

* Bonded Leather: Bonded Leather is leather's bottom. Suede scraps are ground together with glue and resurfaced in a process similar to vinyl manufacture. Bonded leather is weak and degrades quickly with use.

* Genuine Leather: This is produced from the layers of hide that remain after the top is split off for the better grades. These weaker under layers are known as suede. (Don't be confused with the fuzzy finish also referred to as "suede.") The suede surface is usually refinished to resemble a higher grade. It can be smooth or rough. Caution: The inferior quality of genuine leather becomes evident with use.




Want to know more? You can read more tips on How to get rid of Leather Smell, plus information to get rid of practically anything else that ails you - from bad breath to telemarketers to cellulite - at http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

London Fog All-Weather Coats

A black London Fog all-weather coat with its zip-out inner lining holds up well when the temperature drops in the Fall and then whenever ice and snow covers the ground. The inner lining provides added warmth. When, the weather turns to Spring the inner lining is removed.

The London Fog all-weather coat looks great with a long silk scarf hanging down the front of it from underneath the coat's collar.A scarf pin is used to secure it into place on windy days and then knotted at the ends. Plus, a pair of leather or suede gloves adds a sense of elegance to the all-weather coat's style.

The all-weather coat's fabric is water repellent and they are designed to go with urban wear in the form of shorter pea coats to wear over a pair of jeans or in the more classic tastes of a trench coat to protect dresses, a pair of wool dress pants or even a tailored suit.

The London Fog company established itself in nineteen twenty-seven and now has updated itself for the twenty-first century with an e-shop to order their latest styles and rain wear accessories. The prices are very reasonable and ordering online saves time from having to browse through the racks of a department store plus the cost of shipping is less that filling up the car with a tank of gasoline.

Caring for the all-weather garment is easy. First, unzip the all-weather coat's inner lining carefully working the loop attached to a button on the inside of the left coat's pocket. The washing machine cycle is set on hand-wash using the cold water wash and rinse cycle. Add about one-fourth cap of cold water detergent concentrate setting the permanent press cycle to let the machine wash it. Use the air-dry cycle on the clothes dryer for about ten minutes hanging the coat upon a clothes hanger to let it finish drying. The coat is pressed on a medium-low setting with a steam iron to smooth out any wrinkles. After attaching the coat back onto the left pocket and zipping the lining back inside it, the all-weather coat is once again ready to wear without the expense needed for a dry cleaning bill.




Losing weight in today's world is difficult, at http://www.chill6100.wordpress.com Dieter's Quandary are some recipes and helpful tips to lose weight and keep it off.

Monday, December 26, 2011

Everybody Poops - What Your Poop May Be Trying to Tell You

I have to admit up front, this is going to be the crappiest article I've ever written.

You see, as I was walking my dogs Marty and Rosie the other day, it occurred to me that poop plays a huge role in my life. I'm not afraid to admit it. I pick up after my dogs every day, I scoop my cat's litter box every day (OK, not EVERY day, but it certainly feels that way), and I talk with my clients about their bowel movements. In fact, while I was in India this past summer, poop was actually the number one topic of conversation between my colleagues and me, as we compared notes on who had diarrhea and who was still healthy. I even remained on "poop watch," for several weeks after my return to the States, making sure that everything was OK (and thankfully, it was!)

So, if you are a pet owner, parent, health care professional, or world traveler, you probably know what I mean!

But many people don't get to talk about poop as much as I do. I know this because when I ask people about their poop, I often get blank stares and uncomfortable looks. So, I let's talk about all of the questions that people want answered but are usually afraid to ask. After all, your poop is an important indicator of your overall health!

What is Poop?

Have you ever wondered what poop actually is? About 75% of your average poop is water, although this will vary depending on the person. Water is absorbed out of fecal material as it passes through the large intestine, so the longer you take to "go," the drier your poop will be.

The remaining 25% is comprised of dead bacteria that helped us digest our food, living bacteria, protein, undigested food residue (also known as fiber), waste material from food, cellular linings, fats, cholesterol, salts, protein, and substances released from the liver and the intestines (such as mucus).

What Makes a Healthy Poop?

Your feces are a clear indicator of the health of your gastrointestinal tract. Dr. Mehmet Oz says, "At the end of the day you can analyze your body really effectively by looking at what comes out of your body."

So what should you look for? A healthy poop will be:



  • Golden brown, which is due to pigments formed by the bacteria in the gut and bile from the liver. You want to make sure the color is normal because that tells you a lot about what's going on in your gastrointestinal tract (more on color below).


  • Formed into one long shape. Dr. Michael Levitt, an Australian colorectal surgeon who has written a book called The Bowel Book, says that the healthy human stool resembles the shape and consistency (although not the same color) of an unripe banana. Dr. Oz says " You don't want [pieces]." Some experts disagree, saying they don't have to be well- formed. Patrick Donovan, N.D., a naturopath in Seattle, WA says "Stools don't have to be well- formed logs. They can disperse in the toilet water; they can break down."


  • Nearly odorless.


  • About 1 to 2 inches in diameter and 18 inches long.


What About Other Colors?

Sometimes we don't see that "golden guru," and are faced with something else instead. Here's some insight into what those other colors might mean.



  • Black: Feces can be black if dried blood is present in it from internal bleeding in the upper digestive tract. See a doctor if this is the case.


  • Very Dark Brown: Drinking wine the night before may result in dark brown poop. This could also be the result of eating too much salt, or not enough vegetables.


  • Yellow: One condition that can cause yellow poop is an infection known as giardia, a dangerous infection that can spread to others. Another cause of yellow poop may be a condition known as Gilbert's syndrome. See your doctor if you are consistently seeing yellow poop.


  • Green: Babies often have green poop when they are given food for the first time. Children may have green or blue poop from certain illnesses or from ingesting food colorings. Adults may also have green poop if they eat large amounts of green, leafy vegetables or if they eat large amounts of foods with green food coloring. Light green poop may indicate excessive sugar in the diet. Green feces can also occur with diarrhea if bile salts pass through the intestine unchanged. Again, see a doctor if you are concerned!


  • White/pale: Feces can appear white or pale after drinking barium sulfate, which is often given to patients getting an X-ray of the digestive tract. A white or pale stool may also be an indication of problems with the gallbladder or liver.


  • Red: Bright red in the feces may be indicative of active bleeding, possibly the result of hemorrhoids. A magenta color may result form eating intense red food coloring, or red foods such as beets.


How Often Should I Poop?

Ah - the big question! Experts disagree on how often a person should poop. The National Institute for Diabetes, Kidney, and Digestive Diseases says three times a week is normal and healthy for some people. According to Ayurveda, an ancient Indian healing system, once a day is ideal. Other experts advocate once or twice a day, while still others say a person should have a bowel movement within two to three hours of a major meal- -or two to three times a day. So you can see that it really depends on who you talk to. My personal opinion is that you above all want to be regular in your pooping schedule, and that one poop a day is ideal.

When someone poops four times a day or more and the poop has a liquid consistency, this is referred to as diarrhea. When someone poops less than two or three days a week and the poop is hard, dry, and difficult to pass, this is known as constipation.

What's the Deal with Corn?

It's funny, so it's ok to laugh. But most people I know have experienced it and they ask why it is that when you eat corn, the next time you poop there it is again! There are a couple of reasons for this. One is that most of us do not thoroughly chew our food. Another interesting tidbit I've learned that there is an outer coating on corn that is made up of indigestible cellulose. This outer coating slips off the inner kernel and, since it's indigestible, passes through the gut intact. It then emerges looking like a whole kernel, even though it's just the outer skin. The inside of the kernel is starchy and digestible, and that is the part that we succeed in chewing and digesting.

Well, hopefully you know now a lot more about this important topic. And that's the scoop on poop!




The information in this article is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

Julia Kalish, eRYT-500 is a Certified Nutritionist and Yoga Teacher in Herndon, VA. She is the owner of Double Dog Yoga in Herndon, which specializes in beginner-level vinyasa yoga instruction in both small groups and one-on-one. Double Dog also offers classes for the experienced yoga practitioner at their Herndon location. To contact Julia, email her at julia@doubledogyoga.com, or visit her website at http://www.doubledogyoga.com The content of this article may be used without special permission; provided it is used for nonprofit purposes and full attribution and contact information for Julia Kalish is given. For other purposes, contact Julia Kalish at julia@doubledogyoga.com

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Lower Jaw Pain - Why Your Lower Jaw Causes You Pain

Lower Jaw Pain

Do you suffer from lower jaw pain? Does this jaw pain keep you up at night and make you want to shoot yourself? Is the jaw pain excruciating and radiate up around the ear area or even cause tooth pain? If so, you might have TMJ.

What is TMJ

TMJ is a disorder of the temporomandibular joint that causes inflammation and incredible pain of the join. This pain can radiate up into the ear, face and neck, causing tooth pain, headaches and stiff and sore jaw muscles making it hard to chew or open the mouth.

The temporomandibular joint is the joint that connects the lower jaw to the skull. This is located right below the ear. The TM joint is the most complex joint in the human body because it's the only joint that moves up, down and left to right. Because of this, this joint can become weak and damaged leading to this disorder that causes extreme pain.

TMJ starts with lower jaw pain, and be caused by many different reasons. Some of these are trauma (car accident, a punch to the jaw, etc...) to the joint, extended amount of stress (stress causes us to clinch the jaw) or hereditary causes such as arthritis, etc... No matter what caused it for you, the pain is all the same. It's hard to sleep, eat, or even be happy!

How To Cure TMJ

There are many ways to cure your lower jaw pain, but some are more involved than others. If you have extreme cases of TMJ, you can look at surgery, although I wouldn't recommend this. This surgery can cost $50,000 and most insurance won't cover it. Besides, who wants to have their jaw broken and reconstructed?

I am a long time TMJ sufferer that has found some exercises to do at home that builds up the weak and damaged joint so that I no longer have lower jaw pain for longer than a few minutes at most.




Do you ever lay awake in bed at night because of your TMJ pain? I remember just wanting my wife to shoot me because nothing I did would stop the constant pain. It even hurts to chew food! Luckily, I found a few things that relieve the pain, and can actually reverse the damage to the TMJ joint. Visit my site for TMJ Pain Relief Techniques and get your life back!

Friday, December 16, 2011

Guide to Wearing a Zoot Suit

Zoot suits are part of Urban-American fashion. They have not yet faded away. In the 1930's and 1940's Zoot Suits became the height of fashion for Mexican-Americans, self-titled as "pachucos", to distinguish themselves and set their own distinctive style. These suits are a type of exaggerated three piece suit.

Jim Carrey made a mockery of the style in the "Mask" movie. The Zoot Suit jacket is very long with wide lapels and padded shoulders. The pants are worn high at the waist, being cut very wide and pleated in the leg area. The Zoot Suit has a vest with a very long gold chain hanging down from pocket to button which can also be attached to a pocket watch at the one end that is held in the vest pocket.

They pinnacle of the look is the fedora hat, that often has a very long feather (from the peacock or pheasant) from the side brim of the hat towards the back of the hat and downwards. Even though Mexican-Americans invented the style, African-Americans and Italian-Americans also picked up on the style and began to wear these suits in the forties. They were worn by men that really wanted to stand out and be noticed, especially the ones that were part of the street culture or the underworld at that time.

There was even a Zoot Suit Riot in Los Angeles, when the WWII effort was underway. The Zoot Suit Riot was caused by US soldiers embarked on a campaign to eradicate the "subversive" elements, with the tacit approval of the Los Angeles Police Department. The soldiers went into the neighborhoods of East Los Angeles to physically beat up any Latino man that happened to be wearing a Zoot Suit at the time. The reaction of the neighborhoods to these indiscriminant beatings, to which the police turned a blind eye, was to riot.

In more modern times, Zoot Suits are part of the nostalgia movement, that also includes antique automobiles that have been meticulously restored. Take an antique car from the 1940's, chop it (meaning make it ride very low to the ground, a "Low Rider"), repair and replace all parts with original parts if they are still available or custom made parts if the original parts are no longer to be found. Then paint the car in the most outrageous ways, with metallic colors and flames running down the sides. Now you have an excuse to wear a modern, custom-tailored Zoot Suit which is available from any number of specialty tailors found online.

The restoration of such a car may set you back $20,000 to 40,000 if you do most of the work yourself or hundreds of thousands if you buy such a car at antique car auctions that is already fully-restored. If you are going to go to all the trouble to restore such an old car, or if you can part with the gigantic amount of money necessary to buy one, then you need to also be properly dressed and the only way you can possibly look super hot in a fully restored 1940's car is when you are wearing a custom made suit, Don't forget to also wear your fedora hat with one gigantic feather in the brim.




Hendrik Pohl is the owner and founder of http://www.ties-necktie.com/. Ties-Necktie.com offers a wide range of quality handmade silk ties, as well as useful dress code tips for men, men's fashion advice, necktie knot instructions, and more.

Monday, December 12, 2011

How to Knock Someone Out With One Punch

It is actually not as hard as many people think to knock someone out with one punch. Watching a boxing match, mixed martial arts fight, or other combat sports you can get the impression that a knockout punch is something very difficult to get right. But in real life, in a street confrontation with no gloves and fighting against someone who is probably not trained to take a punch, getting a k.o. is much, much easier.

If you want to learn how to knock someone out with one punch the first thing you have to do is to think about what it actually is which causes the loss of consciousness. Some types of punch can be very effective at hurting your opponent, opening up cuts on their face or breaking their nose, but may still have little or no chance of knocking them out.

When a person gets knocked unconscious by a punch it is not the immediate force of the impact which does this, but rather the force of the brain being rattled against the inside of the skull.

This means that a punch which causes the head to jerk and move rapidly will be much more likely to knock someone out than a punch which causes less movement of the head, even if it is not as hard. It also means that speed is paramount. A very fast strike with just enough power to move the head will be more likely to knock someone out than a slower punch which has more power and weight behind it.

The need to create this movement of the head is the reason why you are more likely to knock someone out with a punch which they don't see coming. If you see a punch coming towards you you will tense your neck muscles and brace yourself against the impact, reducing the movement of your head when the punch lands. If your neck muscles are relaxed when a punch hits you then you will almost always get knocked out, whatever kind of punch it is.

Once a fight has started it is very difficult to engineer a situation where your opponent will not see a punch coming, however if you are in a situation where you are being threatened and a fight seems inevitable, but hasn't yet started, you can take advantage of this by suddenly throwing the first punch at an unexpected moment, such as while you are in the middle of a sentence, and by striking from a direction where they will not see it until it is too late.

When it comes to the actual punch a strike from the side, such as a hook, is more likely to knock someone out than a straight punch to the front of the face, simply because it will be harder for the neck muscles to prevent the head from being jerked. For the same reason an uppercut is generally better than a straight punch, but probably not as good as a hook. When trying to knock someone out with a hook the further away from the neck you can land the punch the more movement there will be and the more likely it is to knock them out. This means that the best place to land a hook is right on the end of the chin.

The ultimate knockout punch, however, uses and entirely different method. Rather than jerking the knead it uses the principles of Dim Mak pressure point fighting. The ultimate knockout punch is a strike to the temple. You have to be very accurate to get this right, but with practice you can do it every time.

The only trick you must know in order to knock someone out with a strike to the temple is how to hold your hand. It should be clear that an ordinary fist is much bigger than the area of the temple, and so it is very poor at focusing force on this pressure point.

There are two hand forms you can use instead. The first is the phoenix fist, in which you hold an ordinary fist but with the middle finger raised up a little out of the bunch. When using this you strike with the middle joint of the raised finger, rather than the knuckle.

The other option, which I personally prefer, is to use a sword hand. To do this hold your hand out flat with the palm facing downwards and turn your wrist so that your fingers are pointing outwards. This creates a fairly sharp point from the joint at the very base of the thumb, just above the wrist. With this hand form you strike using a swinging motion of the arm.

When practicing either of these strikes power is virtually irrelevant, and accuracy is everything. If you land a strike with the whole force focused on the temple you will knock your opponent out every time, no matter how hard the strike is.




Dean Walsh also write for a Street Fighting Techniques blog and publishes articles on other sites such as this one you may be interested in on How To Punch

Sunday, December 11, 2011

The Right Neckties - Business Vs Black Tie Attire

Almost no one will argue the point that people in general, particularly, have forgotten or perhaps "unlearned" how to dress properly. For many of us, business meetings have been reduced to a quick stop at the coffee shop so we can use the WiFi connection to show a client or prospect a few things online over a latte, before we're off again. Even more often, we simply set up an online meeting and unless there are webcams involved, you can show up in your underwear with a 3-day beard on your face, and no one will know the difference.

Whether the Internet is really to blame is debatable, but it's a fact that those of us with the skills to dress properly for casual, formal, or business occasions have become a rare breed. Even those who know when a necktie is called for may not realize that there is a difference between casual ties and formal ties and a proper way to wear each. Knowing the difference just might be a skill that saves your, um - face - one day. Here are a few tips to get you on the right track:

First, determining whether a situation is casual, formal, or somewhere in between really isn't rocket science. Dinner out with your college friends is casual. Dinner with the CEO of your company is at least semi-formal. Meeting an old friend for lunch is probably casual. Meeting the guy you're asking to invest 5 million dollars in your venture should be considered formal. And honestly, when you meet that prospective client at Starbucks, you might be surprised at the impression a necktie with a nice suit will make. It shows that you are a professional and that you take your job seriously. If you back-up your professional look with wealth of industry specific knowledge, then the client will feel good about investing time and money with you.

Second, what's a formal tie, and what's not? While the distinction may not be clear, there are a few mistakes you want to avoid. Save your knitted skinny tie for a night out with friends. It is in fact a trendy necktie design that has gained much popularity in recent years, but nevertheless is out of place for traditional business attire. Instead wear a standard size tie with classic colors and patterns. The typical width ranges from 3.25 to 3.75 inches. The best colors are burgundy, any shade of blue, and greens. Striped neck ties are also always a good choice for business. Stay away from too flashy colors and "loud designs". They will appear unprofessional and will distract your client from listening to you. Fabrics aren't a huge factor, but most quality neckties are made from pure silk. Oh, and for Pete's sake, if it's Black Tie, go with the bowtie and if you can't tie it, get help!

Okay, so what about HOW you wear the tie when you wear it? Here's where we'll probably incite some argument. There are "guidelines" for matching the knot you use for your tie to your collar, the shape of your face, etc. We'll discuss this further at some later point. For the purpose of this article, here's what you need to know: For formal events, learn to tie a Windsor, Pratt or half Windsor knot. While a four-in-hand is easier, it may not appear straight and can create the impression that you dressed in a hurry. Also, a loose knot of any kind presents an aloof appearance. Keep it tight.

So, whether you're meeting the new girl of your dreams or interviewing for that position at Trump Towers, think about the mode of dress and choose and prepare your tie as carefully as the rest of your wardrobe. It's worth the time.




Hendrik Pohl is the owner and founder of http://www.ties-necktie.com/ - and online retailer specializing in mens neckwear and formal accessories such as cufflinks, bow ties, and pocket squares. When not working on business, Hendrik Pohl enjoys sharing his expertise on formal men's fashion by writing articles for online publications and magazines.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Basic Groundwork and Saddle Work For the Herd Bound Horse

Basic Groundwork and Saddle work for the Herd Bound Horse

Herd bound horses can become dangerous if the problem is not nipped in the bud right away. However, it's one of those problems that many people are unable to deal with as it takes a certain level of skill.

This article is for those who are baffled and need a solution that they can accomplish. It won't be easy, and does require patience and dedication, but the techniques are easier to follow than some others and the results are good.

This is for the horse that is strongly bonded with a single buddy or herd, and those horses at the point of showing aggressive behavior and lack of respect for the handler/rider through rearing, kicking and biting.

This horse (for the purpose of this article) cannot be caught, groomed, lead, tied or go on a trail ride anymore. Previously this horse was good in all categories and no problem for the owner.

The problem lies with the owner not having a leadership role with the horse, and thusly the horse has no confidence in the handler and prefers to stay with the safety of the herd. The handler must change the relationship from human to leader.

While I have attempted to set up a number of exercises that will get you started and accomplish good results, to write about this in depth would be a book, and further study may be needed to put the detail and finish on a horse. However, work on these exercises and do each one really well before moving on to the next. It is in this patient dedication that you achieve the results you want. Do not rush through training. The smaller the lesson, and the simpler you can make it, the faster your results. Less is more when training horses.

There are many advanced exercises in groundwork and saddle work that you can use once your horse is behaving better and you are ready to move on to advanced riding.

Groundwork

Groundwork is the foundation of all the other things we ask from our horses, including this. Good groundwork done previously would have prevented the horse from getting dangerous and challenging. It may not have prevented him from trying, but it would not have been able to escalate to this level.

For now, let's start with these exercises.

It's important to purchase and keep the following equipment. These tools can be used with any breed or discipline. A trainer is only as good as his/her tools:

Rope Halters

Traditional halters have a nice elegant look to them and are easy to put on a horse. Unfortunately, some horses tend to pull against them and drag their handlers around, as the wide bands of leather (or nylon) are almost comfortable for a horse.

Rope halters are generally made of soft round rope, all neatly tied into a halter that you tie up instead of buckling. Done up properly, they are easy to untie should the horse pull back in one, and there are no buckles to rust out or break. They come in another variety that has several knots in the nose, and a bit stiffer rope, for the really 'bad boys'. They don't need oiling to keep them soft, and can be washed.

Their function is to create pressure and ask a horse to pay attention and listen. They take the place of having to resort to nose chains, lip chains and other various ways to dress up a traditional halter to maintain control. They are very difficult to break should a horse get hung up in it, so never put a horse out with one on. They are NOT to be used when teaching a horse to tie for the first time, or to be used when trailering.

Rope halters work on the horse through pressure around the poll area and the nose. The thinner strand of rope is soft enough to not burn a horse, but small enough to allow more direct pressure points. When in use, it asks the horse to "pay attention and listen" without causing anxiety or abuse, as opposed to painful methods such as lip chains. Pressure teaches; pain builds resentment.

You may want to try one on your horse and see what you think. Rope halters are used by English and Western trainers, as many disciplines are finding the value in their simple design.

Lead Rope and Horseman's Stick

You will need a soft rope no shorter than 12 feet.

The Horseman's stick is valuable as it is durable and won't bend like a traditional whip will, and it has a 'tail' end of rope that also aids in teaching.

The horse you lead is the horse you ride.

You are going to get your horse to be compliant in these areas:

1.    Lead without pushing you or getting into your space

2.    Stand quietly away from you without reacting to external stimuli

3.    Keep both eyes on you attentively

4.    No fear of being touched or handled anywhere

5.    No vices such as biting, kicking, rearing or head bouncing

Standing Quietly

Here is an exercise you can start in the aisle way of a barn.

Stand the horse in an aisle and face him. Keep your lead loose, and tap the whip/stick rhythmically on the ground for a few seconds, on front of his chest.

If he backs up at all, stop and tell him he's good in a quiet voice. Continue, and praise him for the smallest try.

If he does nothing, tap the whip in 3 stages, softly, asking him to back up, for about 6 taps, then tapping harder and close to his chest, with the intention that he had better back or else, and if this does nothing, it's time to connect. Tap him with intention and firmness once on the chest between his legs. Mean it. Do it and when he startles and backs, keep the lead soft (no pulling what so ever) follow him and stand and look at him for about 5 seconds.

If he runs back and wonders what hit him, just let him back, staying soft with the lead line, no pulling, letting it out as he moves back, and stand very quietly. Let him blow on his own; it will teach him to to take responsibility.

Then repeat. Keep repeating until you only have to tap the ground and he responds.

Now take this lesson outside and test it. This exercise gets him to pay attention to you by keeping two eyes on you all the time in anticipation of your next 'question' to him.

I really like this exercise and it is the first I often do with horses who generally don't have anything really 'bad' about them. When you do stand quietly, let the rope rest on the ground with you holding the end, as this is the prelude to ground tying.

I also like to start in a barn aisle as the horse has to face you and pay attention.

Leading Exercises

These exercises help with keeping horses out of your space, respecting your speed, keeping up and general obedience.

Leading against the fence

Take your horse out along the side of a fence and with rope in one hand and stick in the other, letting the 'tail' drag along behind you, ask him to move with you and stay at your hand, not in front of you or behind you (rope is in the hand by his head, stick is in the opposite hand) If he lags behind, flick the tail of the stick behind you as a lead mare would flick her tail at a lazy herd member. Move at a reasonable pace. If he gets in front of you, use the stick in front of him to ask him to stay back. Keep your hand up at his eye. This asks him to stay out of your space while you walk along. As you get better with this you can keep your hand lower. I like to hold my hand in a 'leading gesture' - just below their eye and in front of it, once the horse understands to keep their distance.

Always work both sides. Two eyes, two horses. Work one side first and get it down fairly well before moving to the other side. The fence line keeps your horse beside you. Do not use your hands to move the horse around; always use your stick. Horses move into pressure from your hands pushing them. If the horse gets into your space, bring your hand up to his eye and if he continues to move into you, 'pulse' your hand rhythmically near his eye without hitting him. If he does continue to move into your space, you will have to use your hand in rhythm and let him run into it. Horses seem to know the difference when they run into things and when a human hurts them. By allowing Spike to run into you, you set him up to learn to be responsible for his own actions.

It's important to practice the 'pulsing' with your hand. It is a continuous, same speed of movement; don't increase your hand speed if the horse gets pushy. Keep the same rhythm and speed in a moderate pulse.

The Squeeze

Another exercise is a 'squeeze'. Ask him to walk in between two barrels. Keep them far apart for now, but gradually decrease the space until he has to squeeze between them. Do not pressure him to do this; go about it slowly until he is comfortable with the process of having both barrels hit his sides as he moves through. This gets the horse over the claustrophobic issues they encounter, and builds trust that you will not put them in harm's way. There is always a way through.

You can also back him through the barrels also, using the first method above that you did in the aisle way, to tap the stick and ask him to move backwards through the barrels (again, another test for obedience and submission).

An advanced exercise with barrels is to lay them on their side, and split them for the horse to walk through. Slowly bring them together as the horse gets confidence, and eventually you can join them and jump them on the line. Go slow with this and don't force the horse over the barrels until his confidence is there.

Sending Exercise

This is one of my favorite exercises and I use it extensively when horses begin to lose their brain. It's called a sending exercise, and the point of it is to keep their feet moving and to tire them out a bit to encourage their thinking brain to kick in.

Its roots are similar to longeing but there are some subtle differences in how you apply the techniques.

To begin, stand still and ask him to move away from you to the left. Take your left hand and hold it out away from you to the left, guiding him, through the halter pressure, gently away from you. Most people pull on the halter towards them, tipping the horse in and guiding the horse in towards them. Be careful how your body movements speak to the horse. Move slow but deliberately, not letting him run into you. Keep using this technique until he gets it, and when he makes the effort to walk to the left, let the rope out, soften and stay quiet (do not move your feet). You will have to start this exercise on a smaller circle so that you are close enough for Spike to 'feel' the pressure to one side. Once he begins to understand, change directions often, asking him to go left and right about every 1 1⁄2 times around. This is called 'moving the feet' and the purpose of this exercise is to create leadership and get the thinking part of his brain engaged.

If he gets moving too fast, pull him in and redirect him the other way. Never let him move your feet. Never let him stop and hang out. Eventually he will understand that he needs to conserve his energy and begin with quiet demeanor. This is another one of those lessons that can take time. Just start with a quiet gesture to move out, let Spike respond by moving out where you suggest, feed him some line and stay quiet with your feet. If he is fairly calm, reward him by letting him stand and 'soak' once in a while. Never wind a horse. It will sour them and turn them apprehensive about training and learning. If he has had a rather energetic time trying this exercise, and he is breathing hard, let him stand and catch his breath before starting up again.

To get a horse to stay out at first, you need to become 'large'. Bring your hands up higher and bring up your energy to match the challenge. Never let a horse move your feet. If they come in too close and crowd me, I hold the stick out, and let them run into it with their shoulder or ribcage. It they posture you with their hindquarter, use the stick to spank it away from you. This is the advantage of a Horseman's stick; it is stronger and not as flexible, and when you tip it into the ribcage of a horse, they are going to move from it quickly, as they can't bend it.

It's valuable to practice how to lift and lead the rope. Have another person at the horse end holding the rope and keeping their eyes closed. Lift and lead and have the person move one step to where you are sending them. This will help you to gain 'feel' in what you are doing. If the person moves toward you, it's a signal you are not moving the horse away either. Keep your hand out and to the side. Change places with the other person and see just how subtle the 'feel' is to a horse.

These are basic introductory exercises; if your horses is not 'behaving too badly', they should be done every day and before riding. I do these daily with a few of the more aggressive horses I ride as I always want to know that the horse on the ground is paying attention and using the thinking side of his brain. For my more sensitive horses, I still do groundwork, but it's more in the style of flexing and bending than obedience.

You can learn bending and flexing groundwork also, as it will without question help your horse in his riding training.

Work on your horse for a week or two, 7 days a week, or until the horse has made a significant change in behavoir, then begin to introduce the saddle and bridle again. The day you are thinking of hopping aboard, make sure all the 'bugs' are out by going over your groundwork first, and when the horse appears quiet, responsive, listening to you and sighing and licking, you can begin to ride.

Bits

I always use the softest bit available, which is a French link snaffle. It has two breaks in the middle, and the middle looks like a dog bone. It does not have the 'cracker jack' effect that an ordinary snaffle has, and therefore does not create apprehension or anxiety when first starting out.

The Stop Button at the Halt

When you start, make sure your horse has a really good stop button. When you first mount, ask your horse to stand, by bringing his head gently to one side.

Reach down one rein and guide his head fairly close to your knee (you need to bring his head close enough to your knee, but far enough away so that he can bring his head closer on his own without your help) until he gives. In the giving, the horse will move on his own, closer to your knee. Be careful to keep your hand planted firmly on your leg. Leaving it in the air will only confuse the horse as you will not be applying consistent pressure. Never let the horse give and take with your hand.

The give will feel as if there is suddenly no weight on the rein. This often happens quickly so be watchful of it. When he gives, drop the rein immediately and let him bring his head back to center (it is important to drop the rein immediately as it is the release that teaches). If he walks off, bring his head around to the other side in the same fashion, and when he softens, let him go.

Make sure there is no pressure from the opposite rein. Only pressure from the one rein should be used. You may have to go back and forth, side to side for quite a few times at first. When he finally does get this, he will stand quietly while you fuss around up there, patting his hindquarters and gathering your reins.

If he ever walks off on his own, repeat until he stands, and until you use both legs to ask him to move. Horses need to stay exactly where you put them until asked to change. This is important as it means the rider must be consistent with the delivery of the aids and not be good one day and slack the other.

If your horse keeps moving in a small tight circle with you holding his head close to your knee, sit up straight and go for the ride until he stops. You can sit there longer than he can circle. Keep straight - don't lean in. Continue the exercise no matter how long it takes. If he gets excited, just stay there with his head close to your knee and let him react. It will be very uncomfortable for him eventually and you will have made the right thing easy and the wrong thing difficult.

The horse must never walk away when you first mount. He must stand quietly and wait until you give a distinct signal to move off.

Another advantage of this exercise is that it takes away the power and drive from the hindquarters. We call this 'disengaging the hindquarter' (taking out the clutch). When a horse is straight, they can get into all kinds of trouble and become dangerous. Without the power, they lose that ability, and learn to shut down and focus. It moves a horse from instinct brain to thinking brain. Horses by nature will not use the thinking brain much; humans have to teach them to think first.

At The Walk

Once this lesson is working, begin to walk him around, keeping a fairly loose rein. Then do the same stop again, this time at the walk. As you ask for the halt at the walk, draw your energy and weight down into your seat and stirrup. The horse will feel this and eventually pick up on it, but you need to incorporate that plus the one-rein stop at the same time, at the beginning.

Remember to always change sides so that the horse does not get sore on one side. This is also a valuable exercise for lateral work and suppleness. I do this at a stand still with every horse, every time I get on. And you should do it every time you ride, regardless of how advanced you get with your horse. You can never overdo this exercise, as it gets the horse flexible and ready to work at the movements you ask.

One-Rein Stop at the trot and canter

You can also do this exercise at the trot and canter, as you progress. It teaches the horse to shut down immediately, and it's such a valuable exercise to teach if you have a horse that may be a bit volatile or explosive at odd moments. Once they learn to shut down easily, just the dropping of your hand to the rein will bring them back to thinking brain and stop them before they get too stupid (exercises below).

Once you are comfortable with the one-rein stop at the walk, move your horse up into a trot and use the one-rein stop to stop him. When he stops, sit quietly for a moment and then move him up into a trot again and repeat. Always change sides. Continue to do this until he stops quietly. Remember to sit straight, no leaning, and bring your energy and weight down through the seat and stirrups. Work at the trot for some time, and gain a steady rhythm with the horse before you move into the canter. If the horse is still excitable during the trot, move back to the walk. Always go back a step or two - never move forward if the horse is not getting the lesson. When horses are not quick to learn a new exercise it's because the past ones have not been done well enough and long enough.

You can never do too much of this exercise. When asking the horse to stop during the trot and canter, do not pull his face with force. Ask him to follow a feel and gently but with confidence turn him in to stop. If you pull too quickly you run the risk of him falling. Safety is always first.

If the horse begins to anticipate the stop, go back to the walk and do one-rein stops. Then go back to the trot and canter. You can mix up the exercises to keep this fresh for him, and to test how much has sunk into his brain.

Teaching rhythm, pace and responsibility for gaits

This next exercise will teach your horse to take responsibility for his gait. You should never have to constantly push a horse every few strides, nor should you have to try to correct a fast horse all the time. Horses should stay in the gait you ask until you ask otherwise, and this exercise will help. It's also easy. You will do very little. There is no direct pulling on the face or aggressive motion on your part.

You will need an arena or a field where you can ride safely, and has no holes or rocks. Begin by asking the horse to trot, keeping him in a series of circles. Keep the circles fairly large, as you don't want to put stress on the legs and muscles. Keep your reins loose and allow your horse to trot freely.

Let the horse trot as fast or as slow as he wants, and gently guide him to stay in the circle. Do not pull or try to change his trot speed. Just stay there and go for the ride, quietly, keeping your legs off the horse.

Your only job is to make sure he does not change his gait. If he slows down and almost breaks into a walk, bring him up again. Ask with your legs once, and if he does not move forward with speed, ask again using a crop and legs at the same time, and mean business. Let him jump forward, even canter for a few strides then bring him softly down into a trot again. Never pull a horse back once you have asked him aggressively to move forward. It is a conflicting message for him as you ask to go forward and then check him. This can make him very anxious and you can lose his trust.

Always in training, remember what the single lesson is. In this case, it is simply to move forward. As time goes by and he gets better at this, then you can refine it, but for now it's one lesson at a time only. This is basic introductory movements, not advanced work.

If your horse is more likely to speed up into a canter, each time he does you are to use the one-rein stop to bring him back to a trot. The instant he moves back into a trot, release him and allow him to move forward first, then gently guide him back to the circle.

It's important to remember to bring the horse back to a trot from the canter, not a walk or stop. Remember what the lesson is: trot, rhythm, cadence and obedience. You must stay in the trot at all times. The only exception is above, when you are doing the exercise to move forward with obedience, but even with this exercise you will still bring the horse back to a trot should he move forward at the canter at the beginning.

When you have this working well, move him into the canter, and keep it, staying in the circle. If he breaks into a trot, do what it takes to keep him in the canter. If he begins to balk, do not stop and try again, as this only teaches him to shut down when HE wants to.

Your legs and hands

Also during this exercise, do not 'nag' with your legs at all. The point is to get the horse to continue it's gait on it's own without your help. This teaches the horse rhythm and responsibility.

Your hands remain quiet and still with the exception of guiding the horse, by picking up one rein or the other, never both reins at the same time. You should not have to force the horse into any circles. If this happens, go back to the one-rein stop at the walk. This exercise will teach you to stop the direct rein habit of pulling back with both reins as your first instinct to stop or change gaits. You should learn independence of hand first, and that includes stopping horses with one rein. It is more effective and produces results faster.

Try to change the circle direction often. You should never overdo this or wind the horse. If he gets hot or winded, stop him and let him catch his breath. Once he is recovered, you may resume the circle. I never wind a horse as it can damage them permanently and sour them.

Why does this work?

Horses seek comfort by nature. Since he does not know how long he will have to trot, eventually he will realize that it may be best to slow down and conserve his energy. This is where the lesson is: when he decides this on his own without any help from you.

With some horses, this lesson can take an hour a day for many days, depending how deep the problems run. It is important that you do not give up after a day or so. This does work on even the most stubborn horses. Eventually they all come around. Remember to let the horse catch his breath often.

What's amazing is that you just sat there and did very little. There are many ways to create a great foundation without all the pulling, frustration, aggravation and expensive training. All my students learn this before anything else. You cannot do anything without cadence, rhythm and calm first. This is the foundation to begin all other training exercises.

After about 20 times, you will notice a rhythm and steady cadence to your horse's gaits, from the walk to the trot and canter. Do this exercise at the canter also, as many people avoid too much canter work. I personally spend a great deal of time in the canter, as it is part of my interval training schedule (breathing and endurance) and obedience in speed gaits. Never be afraid of the canter - you can't improve on something if you don't do it. However, if you have trouble staying in the saddle during the canter, it is well advised that you take some training to improve your seat and balance, as often horses canter quickly to avoid the pain and discomfort of the rider coming down hard on their backs too often during the canter.

Groundwork and Riding combined

During your rides, should he ever lose his brain, get off and do the sending exercise until he comes back. I always ride with the rope halter and lead under the bridle, and I attach it to my English saddle by tying it to a short strap that I run from the metal attachment loops on the front of English saddles. On a western saddle I tie it to the horn in a mecate knot.

Get his brain on the ground and then get back on and continue your saddle work. It is not worth getting hurt riding, and there is no need to fight from the saddle. You can obtain the same results and respect quicker and with less fight if you take it on from the ground.

This is only a few of the foundation training exercises that can be done, but it will give you a good start and allow you to feel what it's like before moving into further training. If you do this with consistency and regularly (daily) you will find that your horse begins to 'join up' with you and feel comfortable leaving the herd behind. It all starts on the ground first.

You can also use these basic foundation exercises on those horses that are not herd bound. It is good foundation training, but you should learn to do advanced work once you have accomplished the above exercises. They are not extensive enough to give any young horse the base and foundation he really needs to carry on with advanced maneuvers.




April Reeves
Clinician, Instructor, Trainer
http://HorsemansU.com
Watch for clinic dates in your area.

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

How to Have a 2nd Dog on a Rope

OK... you took the plunge and brought home a 2nd dog now what? There are two huge issues you will have to deal with connected to having two dogs. One problem is to have a plan for handling pet waste disposal and the other is making sure to get exercise for dogs. Here we will discuss what to do about the chains in the back when you have a 2nd dog that needs to go outside.

There are changes when you have two dogs. Another problem is what to do about having two tie-outs in yard.

If You Have A 2nd Dog On Chains - There will be two major concerns:

*A rope wrapping around one of the dogs
*Chains being twisted into knots
*Dogs Being Wrapped Up In The Chain

It's very important that you make a rule (and enforce it) that the dogs can't "play" when they are tied up. Dogs like to have fun and wrestle, but when they're hooked up it's way too easy to get something wrapped up. Since they're playing, when something gets wrapped up, it gets really, really tight very, very fast. That's bad. When the dogs are on their chains alone you will also need to frequently check on them to be sure they don't get wrapped up .

Ropes Getting Tied In Knots This is one of the biggest secrets connected to having a 2nd dog. It's named the "twirly thing". OK, that's not what it's really called, but it's what we call it. It's a awesome little thing that looks kind of like a figure eight. You should clip two different tie-outs (one for each dog) to one of the ends of the twirly thing. The result is that the dogs can wander around and the ropes don't get twisted. Instead of the ropes getting tangled up, the one end of the twirly thing just rotates.

This twirly thing will be a part of most leashes you get that are made for having two dogs. You can also get these at any hardware store. Get a clip and clip it it to your rope post then tie both ropes to the twirly thing.

You can get a 2nd dog, but make sure you pay attention to how you have them in the chains in the back yard. Doing two different things can help. You don't want to see them get hurt, and get one (or 10) of the twirly things to keep the tie-outs from getting twisted together.




Many problems you will encounter from having a 2nd dog can be handled with a little information and preparation.

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Puganese Dog

Puganese country of origin is china and belongs to Toy bread. It weighs around 14 lbs and stands between 6-9 inches.

The Puganese is a double-coat breed. The outer-coat is extravagant, long, and straight flowing with profuse feathering. The under-coat is soft and plush in texture. They come in a wide variety of colors and markings, including parti-color. They are average shedders.

The Puganese is a small, heavily boned, toy breed of dog, Broad in the chest, heavy in front, with narrowing through the body to the back of the hips. The legs are short and bowed. The Puganese is a small, well-balanced breed. They display dignity, a naughty demeanor, and bravery befitting their Chinese origin.

The Puganeses are sensitive, affectionate, and happy and loving, when they want to be. They are also stubborn. They are generally a one-person pet who is deeply devoted to their master. They make excellent watchdogs, as they will give alarm to any danger. They are wary and suspicious of strangers. They are good with children and like to play with them.

They typically do not get along with other pets. Puganeseses have marvelous personalities exhibiting confidence charm and a bit of stubbornness. They are fearless but never aggressive, and their sole purpose in life is to give comfort and companionship to their owners.
Puganese Puppies are easy to raise but requires ample training to socialize them.

The Puganese may be difficult to train due to their indifferent nature. The crate method is recommended for housebreaking. They will not respond to a harsh, loud, or overly bossy master.

The Pekingese requires diligent daily brushing to prevent tangles, knots, and mats. They need to be dry shampooed regularly.

They are very good companions with great confidence




Animaroo's dogs for sale services encompass everything from dogs for sale listings for dog breeders, dog photos, pug for sale

Friday, December 2, 2011

If You Want to Pamper Your Pet, a Toy Is the Way to Go

Dogs don't just love to play; they need to play. Dogs are highly social creatures. They derive comfort just from hanging out with us, but if you want to bond with your pet, playing a game together will do the trick.

Also, many dogs, especially dogs that don't work, run the risk of eating too much and not exercising enough. If you have a pet who likes to run around for an hour, but you have the sort of stamina that means you'll die of heart failure long before that, then playing games like fetch, Frisbee or seek-the-treat are the ultimate in quality time for your pooch.

Here are some cool toys to consider for your pet dog:

Kongs

Kong toys are made from tough rubber that's both bouncy and fun to chew. Kongs are also hollow, so you can stuff them with treats, which adds to the fun. The classic Kong is made of three balls all pushed together. Other Kongs are balls, chews and Frisbees.

Apart from choosing the correct size for your pet, look at the color to get the right strength: black is rough chewers, red is for average chewers, pink and blue are for puppy teeth, and purple toys are for senior dogs.

Squeaky toys with rope

Let your dog chew away happily or hang on to one end to play a fun game of tug-of-war with sound effects. Sophisticated designs have spiral ropes that extend as you pull.

Frisbee

Some dogs like to run after these and pick them up; others become acrobatic starts, performing high jumps and flips as you toss the Frisbee high or deviously low and slow. Small dogs may like the Whirlwheel, a smaller version that's chewable and has an inbuilt squeak.

Rope toys

It doesn't look like much to the human eye, but a simple rope toy with a knot at each end can be a dog's best possession. Some dogs like to sit and chew them; others enjoy it if there's a dog or human tugging on one end while they tug on the other. More sophisticated rope chews will float if thrown into the river, can clean teeth, and have in-built squeaks. Trademarks include Flappy.

Bouncing ball

Whether with squeaks, internal bells or silent, bouncy balls are a huge favorite, especially with retriever or hunting dogs. For small dogs, you may want to buy latticed balls that are easy to pick up with little teeth.

For something more interesting, look out for cross-shaped toys that bounce in odd ways. Some have ridges that you can fill with treats - or dental cleaner! Trademarks include Jump N Jacks, Zanies and Bopperoos.

Chew toys

Dogs love to chew, so owning something that is available to doggy teeth is a real plus in a pet's life. some are plain, some have a squeak and others have ruffles that are designed to help keep your dog's teeth clean.

A good pet shop will have a nice range of toys. However, if you don't have a good pet shop near you, or if you have something very specific in mind that you can't find, there local online shops such as Amazon.com.




Find out how I control my dog's annoying barking with bark control collar. Visit my blog for more information on dog training collars and bark collar reviews.

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Top 10 Reasons Why It's Fun Being Single

"Marriage may be compared to a cage; the birds outside despair to get in and those within despair to get out." - Michael de Montaigne

Just six months ago, I received two announcements: one is from a dear friend and the other is from my favorite cousin. My friend was so excited that her long time boyfriend proposed to her (finally!), and now they're planning to get married. The wedding would be held at around May next year. On the other hand, my cousin (who seems to be a happy go lucky person) also found her man, and was excited to tie the knot this coming January. Of course, I'm happy for them but also nervous that they are not ready yet.

It makes me wonder if my friends, at one point in their relationship, had been embraced by some dark cloud that lifted them off the ground and made them forget the travails that plague so many married couples. Nothing comes easy. Think of all the fun only single-blessedness can give. If I were to get married now, there are thousands of things I'll miss, among them are the following:

1. Coming home at four in the morning after a night out with my friends without anybody worrying about me. With a hubby, I would have to go back to being Cinderella, unless I wanted to end my marriage.
2. Littering the bathroom with female things without some guy complaining about it.
3. Having all my money to myself.
4. Occupying the whole bed, using all the pillows and never having to share the blanket.
5. Disappearing during weekends without feeling guilty.
6. Thinking about some guy I fancy without feeling guilty.
7. Working overtime and going home in the dead of night without worrying about dinner.
8. Playing with my nephews and sending them back to their parents the moment they throw a tantrum.
9. Using the calendar to remind me of deadlines and not to count my safe days.
10. No pressure in all things.

Maybe I'm just having so much fun now more than ever.

I don't intend to knock marriage or discourage would-be brides and grooms. This piece is more of a warning. Like, look again before closing that door, unless you left something important that you can't come back for. I've seen some married couples acting lovely-dovey in front of people, even though the husband beats up his wife in the privacy of their home. One friend's marriage looks perfect, but in fact her husband is having an extra marital affair.
Maybe I have delusions about finding Mr. Perfect. Perhaps, I am just too much of a cynic. Maybe my two friends are really in love. Or they have grown more mature and found a deeper meaning in life, while I have been left behind.

I look forward to getting married someday, or more precisely, I like the image of me as a mother. I have very strong maternal instincts. Even now, I already feel a lot of love for my future children. And I fervently hope I will have twin daughters. But in the meantime, I think it's best to be realistic. It would be foolish to get into a situation that will cause one a lot of headache in the future.




Cham regularly writes about her life, marital affairs and all other "issues" around her. You can check her blogs through her http://pamcham.wordpress.com.

Sunday, November 27, 2011

How to Have Fun With Your Dog on a Rainy Day

Sometimes it's nice to sit, comfy and dry, in your home and watch the rain replenish the earth's natural resources. If you happen to have an overactive pup in the house, however, you may find it a challenge to keep your four-footed friend indoors when he wants to splash outside. When the weather turns especially rough, and puddles are too deep to accommodate safe play, what can you do to keep your dog happy and entertained when you're stuck indoors?

With children, one can always prepare an emergency "rainy day" play box for just such occasions. Dogs, of course, have no use for coloring books and DVDs, so it's important to be prepared in a way that suits their needs. If you fear storms are capable of preventing you from leaving the house, be sure to have enough food and good drinking water on hand just in case. When it's time to play, keep handy proper indoor toys like a small tugging rope or chew bone. Choose a part of the house that is spacious, where there are few breakable items within reach.

If at all possible, choose rainy days as your dog's grooming day, too. As long as you have your dog in a place where you can check for knots in his fur, it's a good opportunity. Play calming music over the stereo, or switch to a channel on the TV that intrigues your pet (some people have suggested Baby Einstein videos for their music and relaxing imagery).

Rainy weather days need not equal disappointment for you or your pup. Use the time to bond over quiet play or gentle grooming. You may find you don't need to go outside to have fun.




Kathryn Lively is a freelance writer specializing in articles on dog supplies and dog food.

Saturday, November 26, 2011

Which is the Right Leash for Your Puppy or Dog?

Which is the right leash for your puppy or dog? With so many to choose from, picking a leash for your new puppy or dog can be confusing. There are really only a few things you need to know, and when you know them, selecting a leash for your puppy or dog is really quite simple!

The best general purpose leash is about 4' (120cm) long, and well made. Look for quality stitching, and a material that will not burn or chafe your hands. Leather is excellent quality and very long lasting if cared for properly. I prefer a cotton/synthetic webbing, the softer the better.

A 4' leash will not encourage bad habits. If you follow a pulling dog, that dog will learn to pull. There is no need for a 'training' collar or reprimands. Any flat collar or harness is fine so long as you are consistent and do not follow a pulling dog. Your dog should ideally walk by your side and not stray too far from that position, a longer leash allows your dog too much freedom.

That is not to say that we cannot give our dogs free time to explore on leash, and when we do give the signal, a longer leash is appropriate. A 'flexi' style retractable leash is great in this situation, although a very strong dog may damage a retractable leash. An aggressive dog is probably not safe on a retractable leash unless the leash is very good quality.

If you plan to do any tracking with your dog, then a good quality 30' (10m) leash is a good investment. Again, I prefer a soft cotton webbing although there are lightweight climbing ropes which do not get heavy when wet and will not chafe or burn. Two knots should be tied, one at the end to stop the line from running out and one about 6' from the end let you know when you are about to run out of line.

I also use my 30' tracking line when I am just ambling through the forest and have signalled to my dog that it is ok to explore within that length of line. Just putting that leash on is signal enough.

A 30' tracking line is also excellent for teaching recalls and stays when you are not in a safe off-leash training area.

The fittings on the end of the leash need to be very good quality. A strong snap-style fitting is best, as it is easy to use and generally trouble free. If you and your dog spend a lot of time at the beach, they will rust out and get jammed with sand unfortunately. I had a leash made with a brass diver's snap. Sand does not get caught in the spring and it does not rust, however it does not have a very strong spring and has come undone by accident. I think it's probably better to just wash out a good quality snap with fresh water and apply a little water dispersant (CRC or WD40) after a visit to the beach.

Cotton or synthetic leashes will need to be washed occassionally, which will greatly enhance their life. By the same token, don't store them in direct sunlight. The same is true of leather leashes. An occassional rub down with leather preservative is all that a leather leash requires.

If you have a dog who enjoys biting at the leash then training can be employed to bring this behavior under control. I favour deliberately teaching a dog to play tug with the leash and putting the behavior on cue, that way I develop control over the behavior and can use it as a reward for other behavior.

A quicker solution to biting the leash is to get a 4' metal chain leash, which is not nearly so enjoyable to bite on. Get one with a snap which attaches to a normal flat collar, some come as choker chains. If you are competent with a choker chain (check chain), then go right ahead and use it as such, but most people are not nearly so competent as they might imagine and would be better served learning positive reinforcement training methods. Positive reinforcement traning methods are far less likely to damage your relationship with your dog, your dog's spine and trachea, and your dog's enjoyment of working and walking.




Aidan Bindoff is Editor of http://www.PositivePetzine.com, a free resource for people training their own dog. Each edition features easy-to-use information on a particular behavior or problem behavior. Training methods are based on positive reinforcement techniques.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Who's Missing from Your Wedding Party? Your Dog!

Man's best friend is enjoying a higher profile when it comes to tying the knot. Although the trend gained steam in the easy-going West, wedding planners all over the country are seeing dogs take on key roles in the ceremony. In short, well-trained tail-waggers are showing up as ring bearers, groomsmen, maids of honor, and even assuming the role that once belonged to good ol' Dad -- giving away the bride. Dogs have become so common in weddings, many professional planners know where to book a dog handler for the day without blinking an eye. (After all, he'll need water, protection from crowds -- and a few trips to the loo.)

Gone to the Dogs?

What fuels the trend to add Fido to the ceremony? Opinions differ, but one is the way that weddings are changing: once they were a purely formal affair, with formal language and dress that hardly seemed to relate to our real lives at all. But many of today's couples are trying to bring more of the things we really say into the ceremony -- sometimes by writing our own vows -- and more of how we really look, which sometimes means bypassing the traditional white dress. And for many of us, our patient pooch is a lot like a child or a two-footed companion. He might have his own furniture, his own shelf full of tasty organic treats, his own set of smart fashion accessories. And whither we go, he goes ... just like any other family member. No wonder many couples don't think twice about bringing him to the altar.

But not every dog makes the perfect bridal party member. No matter how much you might love the mischievous antics of your wayward canine at home, it's only the well-trained, responsive dog that should share your big day. If your dog comes, sits, is good with groups, and can be relied on to hold a "down-stay," he's a candidate. If not, leave him home, or invest in some obedience classes straight away.

You'll also want to clear your pup's presence with the powers-that-be well ahead of time. Yes, it's a little surprising, but with the rising popularity of dogs in weddings, it's a fair bet that your officiant will give you the green light. Many banquet halls at hotels will also say "yes" to a well-behaved pet on your big day, provided you have a handler.

Dressed for Success

Once you've got the go-ahead, the greatest fun in including your dog is dressing him up. Popular choices for pint-sized wedding apparel include adorable jeweled collars, miniature tuxes or bridal gown, and crystal-encrusted combs and barrettes. Diane Meier Delaney of "The New American Wedding" draped her pooch in an ornate floral arrangement that literally took her guests' breath away (but discuss this option thoughtfully with your florist -- avoid poisonous flowers and steer clear of scratchy wires).

Now that you've ordered his attire and your dog's all set to work hard at your wedding, why not plan to treat him? You can purchase adorable cakes and cupcakes designed for occasions that are perfectly safe for your dog: delicious-looking confections made with wheat flour or oatmeal and bananas or honey, dripping with carob and studded with candy dog bones. Or you can make your own -- just search the net for some tested, dog-safe recipes that avoid excess fat and sugar, and pass on canine no-nos like chocolate, grapes, avocados, coffee and certain nuts.




About the Author

Blake Kritzberg is editor of FavorIdeas. Stop by for continually-updated celebrity wedding news, fairy tale wedding favors, wedding attire for dogs and unique wedding favors.

Saturday, November 19, 2011

How to Make a Tennis Ball Tug Toy For Your Dog For Cheap

Does your dog like to play tug of war with you or with another dog? Do you have a bunch of old towels lying around your house that you want to throw away? Dog toys can be expensive and tend to break quickly if your dog is an aggressive chewer. Dogs with high prey drives like Pit Bulls, Border Collies and Jack Russell Terriers tend to LOVE to play the tug of war game!! You can recycle those old towels, instead of putting them into landfill, to make a fun toy for you and your dog to play with!

Supplies

-An old bath towel or tea towel,

-An old tennis ball,

-Scissors OR a drill,

Instructions

STEP 1 - Carefully cut, with the scissors, or drill a large hole through the tennis ball.

STEP 2 - Cut 3 2" strips from the bath towel or tea towel, down the long end.

STEP 3 - Bundle the 3 strips together and tie a knot about 2" down from the end.

STEP 4 - String the strips through the tennis ball & tie another knot as close to the tennis ball as you can. Braid the rest of the length of the towels & when you get about 3" away from the end, knot the strips together to finish the braid.

TADA now you have a finished dog toy! You made it yourself, you made it with items that you recycled from around your house AND you made it for the colossal cost of ZERO dollars!! If you want, you can substitute the bath towel with polar fleece fabric. A great variation on the toy is to make the non-braided end of the toy with extra long dangling ends to give your dog more play stimulation.

Once you get proficient at making this toy, you can make them for friends that own dogs and give them away as gifts OR donate them to shelter dogs, they need toys, too :)




Karen Friesecke is the author of Bloggie Stylish a new blog dedicated to recipes and free projects for dogs. Please visit Tennis Ball Tug Toy Tutorial to see this tutorial, complete with pictures.

Friday, November 18, 2011

Horse Grooming Tools

Every horse should have a grooming kit, his own personal kit stocked with the basic equipment. A basic grooming kit should not cost an arm and a leg however with that said the benefits far outweigh the cost.

Skin infections can be passed from one horse to another, especially with grooming kits, so make sure you have one per horse. So what should a grooming kit consist of?

Here is a list of the basics:

Grooming/body brush

Dandy brush

Hoof Pick

Curry Comb

Mane and Tail Comb

Sponges

Grooming/body brush used to smooth out the coat, removes dirt, sweat and dust

Dandy brush for cleaning mud and heavy dirt

Hoof Pick is used to clean the horses hooves.

Curry Comb used to remove mud and hair from the body.

Mane and Tail Comb used to remove tangles and snarls.

Sponges for the muzzle and dock, a separate sponge for each part!

There are always extras that benefit and belong in a horse grooming kit. Depending what you do with your horse and how often, you may want to invest in some other grooming tools.

If you ride regularly your horse no doubt works up a good sweat. Well take any horse on a long ride, especially an unfit horse and he'd be dripping with sweat. Sweat is no fun job to clean up. The best way is to use water. After you have ridden and unsaddled your horse, fill a bucket with water and using a sponge wash over the sweating area.

Great now you have a wet hairy horse right? You are in need of a sweat scraper; this tool is very useful to get rid of excess water. Trust me, this little procedure makes grooming so much easier once the coat has dried. I usually had no sweat to brush out of the coat.

Another wonderful grooming tool and tactic is the using a detangle spray when grooming your horses tail. Swishing flies all day is a tedious task and most horses will have knots and tangles in their tails which need to be worked out. A horse with a high quality job usually requires detangling spray and grooms fingers.

To cheat you can use the spray and a comb. The spray allows the surface to be coated, the comb slides through the hair and less hair is pulled out. You do not want to pull the tail hairs out! Use the detangling spray to make your job easier, keep it in your grooming kit always.
Lastly another good asset to any grooming kit is fly spray. Both you and your horse will be happier. A quick spray before you ride him keeps the biting, irritating pests at bay.

Grooming tools are forever on the market. Invest in good quality products that will last and spend as much or as little as you want. Only have a basic grooming kit at hand always and use it. Much can be said of a horse owner by the looks of his horse!




Horse Guide.

Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about Horse Grooming Tools. Learn about your horses anatomy.

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Fishing in Pouring Rain

Sometimes a good down pour is what's needed to turn fish on, and there have been many occasions to prove just that. In my younger years, it didn't bother me, but as I'm getting older the bones can sure feel the dampness afterwards. If dressed appropriately with Gortex rain gear you can reap rewards from Mother Nature's dinner bell!

The timing has to be right! With a lengthy consistent weather window it makes for good 'get out there and fish' weather. When there is a quick weather change, like a downpour, it's enough to get the fish aggressively feeding and the action is phenomenal!

I remember a particular day fishing for Pike in a reservoir. The bite was not good at all and it made for tough fishing. It was muggy and hot and from the distance came the threat of black clouds. It was one of those instances where I watched the whole scenario unfold before my eyes. As the storm approached I thought I would pack it in and get out of the water, but with my trusty Gortex rain gear on board, I braved through it. When the down pour arrived the Pike fishing was absolutely on fire! There was a fish for every cast! Will I ever learn! From experiences like these I welcome rain storms with open arms and 'bails'!

If you notice storms arriving in the distance with lightning and thunder the best thing to do then is 'get out' and wait it out, at least until the lightning is done anyway! It's important to remember that it always works best after days of consistent weather.

A little rain never hurt anyone. Come to think of it, a down pour never hurt anyone either especially when its fish after fish action! Hey, at least we're fishing!




Born In Guelph, Ontario, Nic, his wife Lawney and their son Lorenzo now call Kitchener, Ontario their home.

Even though Nic has thirty years of fishing experience, he still feels that you can never stop learning. His love for Bass fishing has brought him to the Pro Bass Tournament trail. In his first year going professional, Nic has two top ten finishes and was a Classic Qualifier in the C.S.F.L Bassmania Pro Bass circuit, placing eighteenth over all.

But Bass fishing is not Nic's only love. In the Spring his passion turns to downrigging for salmon, where he competes in Salmon Derbies. Already, he has a first place win under his belt. And if that's not enough to keep him busy, you can find him chasing Walleye, Pike, and even Muskie. You name it, Nic will fish for it.

http://www.probassfishing.ca has fulfilled a life long dream for Nic. Not only because of his active tournament angling and multi species fishing, but because he gets to share it.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Golden Retriever Grooming: How to Bathe Your Golden Retriever

You will always want to keep the beautiful golden coat of your dog shiny and healthy looking. This can be achieved by giving him a regular bath. This is part of Golden Retriever grooming. Following these simple steps on how to bathe your Golden Retriever will help keep your dog well groomed and healthy.

The Preparation
Brushing
Before bathing your dog as part of your Retriever grooming process, brush your dog's coat gently and comb out all tangles and knots. Skipping this process will tighten the tangles and knots as it gets wet.

Bathing Area & Tools
Always prepare things you might need on hand before proceeding with the next step. Ensure that you place them within your reach for easy access as you work on your dog's bath.
Your dog may enjoy getting washed outside the house but the water might be too cold for him. A dog tub or your bath tub is a better option when giving bath inside the house.
Use dog shampoo for dog baths. Medicated shampoos are recommended if your Retriever has fleas and psoriasis. Conditioner helps prevent tangle hair on your dog. Let it sit in for few minutes before rinsing thoroughly. A towel will make drying easy.

Bath Condition
Ensure that your water is not frigid cold or piping hot. Warm water should be comfortable for your dog.
Protecting the ears, begin saturating the dog starting at the nose up. Apply your first shampoo. Work up to lather all over his coat. Use enough shampoo to saturate the layers of coat. Once you have covered the whole coat, take a brush gently brush the coat in direction of its growth.
After rinsing, apply your second shampoo and repeat the same brushing procedure.

Bath your dog at least once a week.
Drying Your Dog's Coat
Your Golden Retriever grooming is not complete if you do not follow this most important part of the grooming process.
Dry your pet with a thick, absorbent towel or cloth large enough to cover his entire body. Start at the bottom of his leg working up towards the body and end at the head. Do this in both sides of the dog.

If your dog is not afraid of hair dryers, you can finish this drying process using this tool.
As you end the drying process on your dog's coat, be sure to mist lightly with condition solution the entire Retriever. Brush in the direction of the growth of the coat. Avoid over brushing.
A clean dog means a happy owner. Make your dog's bathing experience an enjoyable one for both of you. Bathing is one way to keep your dog looking good and healthy. Practice good Golden Retriever grooming regularly. You will spend longer and happy years with your faithful friend.




Thomas Williams has been a Golden Retriever parent for many years and wants to share his secrets about Golden Retriever training and care. If you want to learn more valuable information about golden retriever grooming and find out top quality information and help with all aspects of the Golden Retriever, including tips on buying a Golden Retriever, help with training, diet and nutrition and grooming, check out his popular eCourse at => http://www.golden-retriever-pets.com/

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Top Dog Toys - Ten Dog Toys Your Dog Must Have

We priced this list of dog toys at around $90 from online dog toy stores. You can modify this list to fit your dog size and age. Remember a dog should have a variety of textures and sounds in their toy box. Please give your dog new toys when you have the time to observe them with their toys. Make sure that your dog's toys are safe for their playing style. Happy dog toy shopping.

When asked what are the MUST HAVE toys a dog should have, we answer that it all depends. Dogs come in all sizes and with different playing styles, so we cannot to come up with one-size-fits-all list. However, recently a customer said that they were getting a 2 year old, medium size rescue dog. They had no idea of its background or if have ever had any dog toys. This is the MUST HAVE dog toy list for that medium size dog.

Every dog should have a Busy Buddy Twist 'n Treat. This space ship shaped dog treat dispenser twists to make the treat openings larger or smaller. Therefore, you can use a variety of spreadable and dry treats in this dispenser. This interactive dog toy is easy to wash and keep clean because it twists apart. If you find out your dog does not care for treats this makes a fun bouncing spinning dog toy. For medium size dogs, we recommend a medium size Twist and Treat by Premier Pet Products.

Rope toys are versatile and tough. We recommend a large 5-knot dog rope toy, 36 inches long and about 1.25 inches thick. This is a great tug rope, shake rope, and chew rope. Please buy American made white ropes, we like Pearson Industries ropes. Then you do not have to worry about dye chemicals. Watch your dog with this rope; if it pulls threads out of the fringe take it away, or you can try cutting off the fringe.

Now for dog balls, almost every dog loves balls. We suggest the 6-inch Bounce n Play Jolly Ball by Jolly Pets. This ball will not deflate when your dog punctures it with their teeth. This is a great size for chasing. Additionally, get a package of Kyjen IQube replacement balls. These soft balls are tennis ball size and have a squeaker in the middle. They are great for fetch and catch games both inside and outside.

Ty Bow Wow Beanies are quality crinkle toys at a great price. We love them all but, we suggest the Lizzy Lizard. According to customers, this toy is the toughest dog toy they have found.

Giggle Stick dog toys make sounds that many dogs love. Betsy advises the Giggling Flamingo; however, we suggest The Chuckle by Busy Buddy. Rubber surrounds this giggle stick, and so it is an extra durable dog toy. Because we do not know this dog's destruction style, it is best to find toys that are likely to last.

Grunters are great deep noisemakers. Your dog is sure to love Kyjen Pet Product's Furry Marmot. This super furry toy has a protected grunter in its body and a long tail. If your dog loves to shake its toys, it will love that long tail.

How can we pick just one talking-real-sound dog toy? There are so many great ones. Norman, The Sound Loving Dog decided on the Look Who's Talking Loofa Chimp by Multipet. This toy has a screaming Chimp sound and a cawer squeaker too...so it has two great sounds in one toy.

We love Dr Noys' Dog Toys by Kong. These plush dog toys have little or no stuffing, plus they have replaceable squeakers. They even come with extra squeakers. We love them all but are suggesting the Extra Long Snake. This snake is great for tugging, shaking, and squeaking.

Puzzle toys keep dogs busy and are a great way to bond with your dog. The Hide A Squirrel by Kyjen Pet Products is the most popular of these dog toys. The Hide A Squirrel is a plush stump with 3 little squirrels that fit in the holes in the stump. You put them in and your dog takes them out. The little squirrels are favorite toys of many dogs because they have a squeaker in the middle and are easy to carry around and squeak.




November 2002 my life changed with the adoption of Betsy, a darling black and white puppy. Before that time, I sold Antiques on eBay. Betsy is a very independent dog, and she needed lots of dog toys. Trying to order dog toys on line was very frustrating, mainly because the people on the other end were so cranky. I knew selling dog toys should be fun, so we (Betsy and I) decided to change BestFriends General Store to a dog toy business. Dog toys are now my passion. I go to all the major Companion Animal trade shows to find the latest, greatest, and most innovative dog toys. I call myself a dog toy expert...Betsy and Norman call me mom.

Monday, November 7, 2011

Benefits of Exercise During and After Breast Cancer Surgery and Treatment

In 1996, the first Surgeon General's report on physical activity and health was published, including the currently accepted public health recommendations for physical activity for general health, 20 minutes of moderate intensity activity - such as brisk walking - on most days of the week. This recommendation has been adopted by the American Cancer Society and is included in the current recommendations from the American Cancer Society in preventing cancer. Exercise has many proven health benefits for both preventing disease and promoting health and well being. There is substantial evidence that suggests that increasing physical activity, including structured exercise programs, is associated with lower rates of certain cancers. In particular, there is evidence that high levels of physical activity can work to prevent colon cancer. Cancers of the breast, prostate, lung, and uterus have also been linked to exercise-related prevention. In a large scale study of 17, 148 Harvard alumni, men who burned as few as 500 calories a week in exercise - the equivalent of an hour's worth of brisk walking or less than ten minutes of waking a day - had death rates 15-20 percent lower than men who were almost completely sedentary. Men who burned 2,000 calories a week (about four hours of brisk walking per week) had about 35 percent lower cancer mortality. The researchers concluded that the more exercise you get, the lower your risk of premature death from cancer or heart disease. The Harvard study also found that the risk of colon cancer, the second leading cause of cancer-related death in the U.S., was dramatically reduced by exercise. Prostate cancer is the most common cancer affecting men today. In the Harvard study, alumni who expended greater than 4,000 calories per week (equivalent to about eight hours of brisk walking) were at a reduced risk of developing prostate cancer compared to their inactive counterparts. For women, a history of moderate, recreational exercise is associated with reduced risk of breast, uterine, cervical, and ovarian cancers, although not all studies have shown this effect. Findings from a 1993 study suggest that women engaged in moderate to high levels of physical activity may have a reduced risk of endometrial cancer. Currently, scientists are studying the biological impact that exercise has on the risk of cancer.

Some of the methods that are being studied include:

• Maintenance of a healthy body weight and overall amounts of body fat.
• Maintenance of low levels of fat in and around the abdomen.
• Maintenance of the biological system that regulates blood sugar levels.
• Control of some tumor growth factors.
• Suppression of 'prostaglandins' (hormone-like substances that are released in greater quantities by tumor cells).
• Improved immune function, including increased levels of Natural Killer cells.
• Reduced symptoms of mild to moderate anxiety and depression (which may improve immune function and overall physiologic functioning).
• Increased levels of free radical scavengers to assist the body in preventing DNA damage

It is not clear exactly how high amounts of physical activity work to prevent cancer. We know that exercise can help prevent obesity, which is related to some types of cancers. It can also change the body's hormone levels, which might also have a favorable effect. Exercise, by speeding up metabolism, is generally believed to speed up the passage of ingested foods through the colon - thus reducing the amount of time the colon mucosal lining is in contact with possible carcinogens. Additionally, those who engage in a high level of physical activity are much less likely to smoke cigarettes, the single largest contributor to cancer.

Benefits of exercise during treatment

Starting or maintaining an exercise program after cancer diagnosis results in patients who are stronger both mentally and physically, concludes a statistical analysis of 24 studies. Kerry Courneya of the University of Alberta, Canada led the research, which is published in the Annals of Behavioral Medicine. Courneya says "Cancer diagnosis and its' treatments are often associated with negative side effects that diminish the quality of life. Overall, studies have consistently demonstrated that physical exercise following cancer diagnosis has a positive effect on the quality of life." The various studies mention increased stamina, increased functional capacity, strength, self-esteem, improved treatment tolerance, and satisfaction with life, and decreased pain. Psychological changes, including a decrease in total mood disturbances, decrease in depression, and fewer problems sleeping were noted between the exercise and non-exercise groups. It has also been noted that increased physical activity has been associated with less fatigue during and after chemotherapy and radiation. The specific exercise "dose" (frequency, intensity, and duration of sessions) needed to improve physical and psychological functioning in cancer patients probably differs according to specific treatment, cancer type, and individual response to treatment. Some forms of cancer treatment, particularly those that are used to treat childhood cancers, have been found to have long-term negative effects on the heart and lungs. This makes it even more important to exercise regularly, but it may important to do so under medical supervision. Fatigue is the number one side effect of cancer treatment affecting 76% of patients undergoing treatment. Cancer fatigue is not like everyday fatigue that one experiences due to lack of sleep, stress, overextending oneself etc.... This type of fatigue is not usually relieved by rest and can have a negative effect on one's quality of life. There are many things that may lead to fatigue, but one thing is certain; exercise reduces fatigue. Research has demonstrated that beginning or maintaining an exercise program during cancer treatment can have a positive effect on combating fatigue.

Benefits of exercise during recovery from surgery

After cancer surgery exercise plays an invaluable role in helping one return to the strength and fitness level that was maintained prior to surgery. In many cases, due to lack of physical activity prior to surgery, patients are able to reach new heights in strength, flexibility, and cardiovascular conditioning. There are certain postural implications that often arise after mastectomy and lymph node dissection that are often compounded by reconstruction and radiation. After years of working with cancer survivors, we declare with certainty, that most of these issues can be dramatically improved upon if not entirely corrected, through the proper combination of stretching and strengthening. Anytime there is an amputation, it will ultimately result in some type of muscle imbalance. These issues will not correct themselves. Unfortunately, even patients who undergo physical therapy are released long before they are fully recovered, leaving the patient to go it alone in determining how to resume normal activities. In addition, when patients receive radiation to a particular area, there is bound to be some tightness, perhaps even scar tissue, where they received treatment. This can cause tightening in that area, and depending on where it is, can also contribute to many postural deviations. These postural imbalances are notable in most people due to everyday circumstances i.e.; working at a computer all day, holding a phone between your ear and your shoulder, sitting at a desk all day, holding a baby on one hip etc... Not only are they compounded by the surgery and radiation, but they can create a chain reaction, leading to neck, back, hip, knee, and even ankle pain. A thorough postural assessment can determine what areas need to be stretched to relieve tightness and spasm and which need to be strengthened to create a counter balance. Let's not forget about the many benefits of cardiovascular conditioning. Many of you may still be suffering from fatigue long after your treatment has ended. Cardiovascular training, biking, walking, running, etc., will produce endorphins that will give them much needed energy. Unfortunately chemotherapy and radiation can have a detrimental effect on the heart and lungs. The good news is that both can be strengthened through a regular cardiovascular exercise program. Swimming can provide an excellent source of relief for tight muscles without putting excessive strain on them. The buoyancy of the water allows for a wonderful workout that allows you to focus on range of motion for your arms and shoulders. This is highly recommended for breast cancer patients, particularly those who have undergone an axillary node dissection. Swimming should not be limited only to breast cancer patients, however, for it has benefits for everyone. Those clients suffering from arthritis will want to make sure the water is at least eighty-four degrees

Strength Training

Strength training is a very important component of an exercise program, however, without a proper assessment, it can create more problems than it can prevent. Proper attention must be paid to not only your goals, but your bodies' needs. This can be accomplished by conducting a postural evaluation to look for muscle imbalances that may lead to degeneration of the joints over time. It is critical to determine which muscles are shortened, or overly tight, so that proper attention can be paid to stretching those muscles first. This will help you to regain normal range of motion and functioning. If you begin strength training before addressing the muscular imbalance, it can lead to a greater imbalance and degeneration. Done properly however, strength training can lead to an increase in lean muscle mass which will not only give a desirable physical appearance, it can help to prevent obesity and osteoporosis. Obesity is the fastest growing health problem in the United States. Obesity is not only associated with other diseases, it has a huge emotional impact as well. There is distinct connection between obesity and Type II diabetes. This is of particular concern when dealing with cancer patients. Following chemotherapy and certain hormonal therapies, many cancer patients find themselves gaining weight. Many were over their ideal weight to begin with are now struggling with a serious weight problem in addition to their cancer diagnosis. Obesity is not only connected to Type II diabetes, it is also thought to be associated with certain types of cancer, yet another compelling reason to start exercising, eating right, and losing weight.

For those of you who have undergone a lymph node dissection, or radiation to the lymph nodes and vessels, you are now at risk for lymphedema. Lymphedema is the swelling of an area do to damage to, radiation, or removal of lymph nodes and vessels. It is usually a permanent and irreversible condition that is both painful and disfiguring. Having an excess amount of body fat can actually increase your risk for lymphedema because the fatty tissue retains fluid. Both men and women who are undergoing hormonal therapy are at risk for osteoporosis. This risk is magnified if you have also undergone chemotherapy. In addition to osteoporosis, men may also experience a loss in lean muscle tissue over time. The good news is that strength training can help to reduce body fat by increasing lean muscle mass, increase bone density and prevent osteoporosis, and prevent and/or manage Type II diabetes.

In summary, the benefits of strength training:
• Increase lean muscle mass; better physical appearance, higher metabolism, less body fat
• Reduces the risk of Type II diabetes and lymphedema by reducing the amount of body fat
• Reduces the risk of osteoporosis by increasing bone mass

Aerobic (cardiorespiratory) training

Aerobic training is exercise that places a stress on the cardiorespiratory system. Any form of activity can be used; walking, biking, basketball, strength training, etc. All forms of exercise must utilize the cardiorespiratory system to either sustain and recuperate from the activity. Many people who have undergone chemotherapy and radiation may have damage and scarring of the heart and/or lungs. Aerobic exercise can help to strengthen the heart and lungs, minimizing the amount of damage they will sustain. As with strength training, aerobic exercise helps one to maintain their ideal body weight thereby reducing the risk for diabetes, future cancers associated with obesity, heart disease, high blood pressure, high cholesterol, and lymphedema. It is critical to perform a warm-up to prepare the body for physical activity. There are two types of warm-ups; general and specific. A general warm-up consists of movements that are not specific to the activity to be performed. A specific warm-up more closely imitates movements form the actual activity. NASM suggests that the cardiorespiratory portion of a warm-up should be five to ten minutes long at a low-to-moderate intensity. On a scale of 1-10, 1 being bed rest and 10 being all out exertion, aim for a five! If you don't have an exercise machine, climb stairs, march in place, walk around the block, shoot some hoops, etc. If you would like to continue to do your aerobic exercise beyond five to ten minutes, go ahead and increase the intensity. Try pushing yourself to a 6 OR 7 on that scale of 1-10. Remember that this is general advice. If you have a heart condition, high blood pressure, have had a stroke, or any other special consideration, please consult your doctor for specific recommendations. Additionally, if you have had lymph nodes removed or had radiation to lymph nodes or lymphatic vessels, you must not allow yourself to overheat. Overheating will increase your circulation and can lead to the onset of lymphedema. If you already have lymphedema, the same rule applies because it can worsen your condition. If you have not been exercising regularly, begin with 10-20 minutes of aerobic activity three times a week. Gradually increase the time (duration) and number of workouts (frequency) to meet your goals.
Once you have completed your warm-up, it will be time to stretch. Specific stretches will be outlined for each type of cancer and particular surgeries.

In summary, the benefits of aerobic training:

• Increase lean muscle mass; better physical appearance, higher metabolism, less body fat
• Reduces the risk of Type II diabetes and lymphedema by reducing the amount of body fat
• Reduce the risk of heart disease, high blood pressure, and high cholesterol

Flexibility Training

Flexibility is overlooked by most of us. Lack of flexibility may lead to long-term joint degeneration, overuse injuries, and muscle imbalances. By definition, flexibility is the extensibility (ability to lengthen) of all soft tissues that allow a joint to move within it's full range of motion. Your muscular, skeletal, and nervous system make up your kinetic chain. Your kinetic chain must be aligned properly to prevent patterns of joint dysfunction. When things are not properly aligned, it is known as postural distortion. Postural distortion leads to decreased neuromuscular efficiency and tissue overload. In laymans' terms, injury! Your primary goal needs to be to maintain homeostasis of your kinetic chain. Imagine a chain link fence. Your dog skurries his way underneath the fence for years. You think nothing of it. Gradually the fence becomes distorted; some of the links are squashed together, the metal is buckling, there is a big gap in the bottom, it's structural integrity is weakened. Now imagine the same thing happening to your spine. It may not be noticeable now, but over the course of time it, too, will deteriorate and weaken. Muscle imbalances may be caused by cause a variety of external and internal influences; poor posture, emotional stress, repetitive movements (tennis, golf, bowling, etc.), cumulative trauma, poor training technique and form, lack of core (abdominals and low back) strength, and lack of neuromuscular control. Following surgery and radiation, there is usually a foreseeable amount of scar tissue and, in some cases, adhesions that can bind the joint and inhibit movement. This would fall under the trauma category. Under each type of cancer and their respective surgeries, I will address particular postural and kinetic chain concerns and how to correct them. If these issues are not corrected, you will find yourself stuck in a cumulative injury cycle. When there is a dysfunction in the connective tissues of the kinetic chain, the body views it as an injury. As a result, the body will initiate the repair process.

Remember that although beneficial in many ways, strength training creates trauma to the tissue which will then lead to inflammation. The bodies' protective mechanism will increase muscle tension and cause a muscle spasm. As a result of the spasm, adhesions (knots) begin to form in the soft tissue. The adhesions make the normally elastic soft tissue unable to stretch. The end result is muscle imbalance and altered joint motion. If this is not corrected, the adhesions can begin to form permanent structural changes in the soft tissue.

In summary, benefits of flexibility training:

• Increase range of motion in joint movements
• Injury prevention
• May help to prevent arthritis and other degenerative joint disorders
• Eliminates neck, shoulder, back, hip, knee, ankle, and other associated pains

Functional Fitness Training

Functional fitness is the ability to perform one's activities of daily living free of pain and with a relative degree of ease. Most of us take this one for granted, at least until it's gone! Every day we awake from bed, use the bathroom, take a shower (wash your hair and body), brush your teeth, blow dry your hair, put on your underwear, put on your clothes, put on and tie your shoes, etc. Did it ever occur to you that if you had an injury, or a muscle imbalance, it could become relatively impossible to perform one of these otherwise mundane tasks? Well, it's true! In a perfect world we would sit up straight in our chairs, walk with our shoulders back, not carry a heavy briefcase or bag on one shoulder, bend our knees when we bend to pick something up, and so on and so on. Unfortunately, because we live in a less-than-perfect world, most of us have not practiced these methods of self preservation and are now experiencing the aftermath of our poor decisions; pain. You may have been suffering with chronic neck and back pain for years, or you may be new to this game and just beginning to get aches and pains. In either case, flexibility training is the answer for you. Believe it or not, most of these nagging aches and pains are reversible with proper corrective training. Corrective training is a balance of strength training and flexibility training that is customized to meet your particular needs. Following your personal assessment, you will be able to identify the areas that need stretching as well as those that need strengthening. There are several different types of stretching; self-myofacial release, static stretching, and dynamic stretches. Each of these methods is described below.

Self-myofacial release: Using a foam roller, you apply gentle pressure to an adhesion or "knot" for 20-30 seconds. The force that is applied stimulates a relaxation response. This technique is recommended prior to static stretching, as well as during the cool down.

Static stretching: This is the most popular form of stretching. In this method, you passively take a muscle to the point of tension and hold it there for 15-30 seconds. This will stimulate a relaxation response. This method should be used following self-myofacial release and as part of a cool down.

Dynamic stretching: Dynamic stretching uses the force produced by a muscle, along with the body's momentum, to take a joint to the full available range of motion. Rather than hold a stretch for 15-30 seconds, one can perform a set of ten repetitions of dynamic stretches. This is a more advanced method of stretching that can also be used as a warm-up prior to activity. It is recommended that you have good levels of flexibility, core stability, and balance capabilities prior to engaging in a dynamic stretching program




Andrea Leonard is the Author of "Essential Exercises for Breast Cancer Survivors," and The Cancer Exercise Specialist Handbook/Studyguide, President and Founder of The Cancer Exercise Training Institute, and a national speaker on cancer and exercise. Andrea has been certified as a personal trainer for 19 years. SHe is certified by ACSM, NASM, ACE, NSPA, and Cooper Institute. SHe is a continuing education provider for ACE and NASM. Andrea teaches exercises classes for breast and prostate cancer survivors at Oregon Health Sciences University. Andrea has trained and certified thousands of health and fitness professionals in ten countries and continues to teach the Cancer Exercise Specialist Advanced Qualification Course all across the United States.

http://www.thecancerspecialist.com

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